an Ecosystem Model (24Wx8Hx8l) bare refugium (no pump, plumbing, etc). After reading Ecosystem's site and your Mud filtering section, I am willing to try the now, however my perception is based on your action or lack thereof to date. . in the system also are very healthy; the growth rate is absolutely phenomenal" . Completely free online dating for Japanese singles meet at Asiandatenet. com. Go from paris Dating has many black women like its. First step in fukuoka Ecosystem Refugium Filter System Completely Free Dating Site For Fat People. workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the date of original retail purchase (“Warranty . EcoSystem Miracle Mud® Filter – a unique biological system.
He says that the MM provides all the calcium and mineral supplements he needs. It must be since his tank is incredible. Should I just add MM slowly over a period of a week?
I was thinking about dividing the bottom of the refugium into two different sections with a piece of Plexiglas. Moving over the substrate that is establish and adding the Miracle Mud to the newly created spot in the refugium. What do you think about this process? Should I just leave things alone? The main reason for wanting to add MM is for the mineral supplements for my tank, which is mainly SPS.
Sorry for the long email, but maybe this will help other people with the process of overhauling their refugiums. It is as follows: Your written English is atrocious. They are running RO water at the right temp and sg but that is about all right now. I plan to build this over time into a reef system with fish, inverts, soft and hard corals. However, I am in no rush and am happy to take my time getting this right.
Nothing wrong with taking your time! Do consider "specializing" in one type of coral or another- i. It will be a much more successful and unique system if you run it this way. I can get 80lbs cured LR at a days notice. So, first question is do I opt for Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha? Does Chaeto have a good track record in MM sumps?
Chaetomorpha is a "free-living" macroalgae, and doesn't need to attach to anything. Although I'm not a big fan of Caulerpa, myself, I would use this macroalgae with the Eco System sumps. Do contact the company for their thoughts on this, however.
Perhaps it may not be necessary to use Caulerpa, but I think that Leng Sy and his people would be the best source of answers on this one! Mud in the sump, let it settle and when water is clear add LR in the main tank, followed a week or so later by algae. Test regularly and when ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are 0 add clean up crew of snails and hermit crabs.
Chill out, keep measuring and if all is stable after a week or two try a couple of small fish probable Percs. Thx for your help. Read on the WWM site about the alternatives to using fish when cycling new systems. I'm brand new to the site and have to compliment you on all of the vast information that I've collected thus far. I recently purchased an Ecosystem filtration. I have read that it requires no Protein skimmer. Seeing as how the first chamber of the sump is designed for use of the bio-balls a questionable item by some of you folkshow do I plumb in a skimmer with the first chamber already used?
Is there a way that I can drill a hole in the outside wall for a pump for the skimmer? Sorry if this question has already been answered on your site, but I have sifted for, it seems like forever, but I've never been able to find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW the tank is an All-Glass with the single overflow. Could I possible tap the down flow from the tank and plumb an inline setup and direct the "exhaust" water directly into the sump proper?
The water in the refugium is extremely cloudy and even when it settles it is stirred up again when I turn on the pump. Will it hurt my main tank if a little of that cloudiness gets in there?
Thanks for being such a help. A handful is about max. I wrote a few weeks ago about keeping separately from my main reef system one or two Mantis Shrimps in a 10G tank which was answered no problem by Jim I think it was.
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But on a recent visit home UK from China I purchased 10lbs. So, I am thinking about installing the 10G with Mantis s next to my G reef to locate the Miracle Mud in, and overflow back to the existing 40G sump. So my questions would be: You spoke of Dead Sea Mud as beneficial What I find is for cosmetic human uses. I am looking for Dead Sea Mud for my refugium. Did I misunderstand the reference?
Where do I find a source to buy some for my refugium? What do you think about the benefit of GARF mud? The various etailers, most larger retailers sell this, other mud products I am going to use Brillo pad algae in it. Do I use all mud to fill it or do I need layers of crushed coral or dolomite? Its then siphoned to a 10 gallon tank, on the Berlin principle with a Euro-Reef rated to gallons. Then returned to the main display tank. This is all made by myself for my 55 gallon. Works well so far.
Both the aquarium and refugia have about 4 inches of fine ESV aragonite that I have inoculated with live sand containing invertebrates from 2 different web vendors. I just bought live mud from Reefer's Madness - when they called it "mud", I had no idea they meant "MUD" - and placed it on top of the aragonite in one refugium so that there is about 1 inch of dense, gooey black mud on top of the 4 inches of aragonite. Is there a possibility of creating an oxygen-free or oxygen-depleted zone in the aragonite that will kill the tiny invertebrates in the aragonite?
Will the invertebrates in the aragonite avoid the gooey mud? Not a really precise answer- but that's the simple truth! If it were me, I'd be careful about disturbing the sand bed. At this stage of the game, I'd just leave the mud alone and keep an eye on the life in the sandbed for any adverse reactions.
Best of luck to you!
- Refugium Sump
Can you give me an update on the following questions: I see a lot of conflicting info on use of Caulerpa. Is it still recommended? Nothing is new here It is prone to "go sexual" and release its cellular material into the water under the right circumstances, and some also theorize that it may produce substances which are potentially toxic to some corals.
I prefer more "benign" macroalgae, such as Chaetomorpha. In addition, it is actually illegal to keep in some areas, such as Southern California, where it has been released into the wild, to great disdain. Under State law Assembly Billthe sale, possession, and transport of Caulerpa taxifolia was prohibited throughout California in September Is it okay to use a micron sock and prefilter sponge with this system? Do these remove the desirable critters? Yes, it is certainly possible that some desirable organisms will be removed by such mechanical filtration, but I believe that the benefits of these "socks" far outweigh any disadvantages, as long as you pay attention to very frequent maintenance.
Is 24 hour photoperiod still recommended?
Refugium Sump: Fish & Aquariums | eBay
Noted FAQ that Anthony answered where he pointed out possible sexual crash, but then I also understand this is key to claim of keeping pH and oxygen levels more stable.
In these cases, is the 24 hour photoperiod detrimental to the live rock? Are the bioballs that ecosystems recommends necessary? Will these become a maintenance issue down the road? From my understanding, these are actually used to keep debris from the macroalgae from escaping the sump. Is there a formula for determining difference in lighting level required to achieve same intensity as a function of water depth?
I'm sure that there are certainly some highly scientific studies on this, and some applications of the inverse square law and other principles that can apply. However, I am a simple guy and I like to keep things well Here's my take on it: I tend to favor the 24" high tank, because you can still utilize to watt halides for most corals.
In a 30" high tank, conventional wisdom is that you will need watt halides. This is not "scientific"; merely based upon the work of hobbyists and personal experiences. Of course, there are many hardcore reefers who believe that you need such intense lights even in 14" tanks! I guess it all adds up to the fact that there are no right or wrong answers to every situation. You just need to assess the needs of your animals and take it from there!
Also would it be ok to run the ecosystem without the Caulerpa? Any kind of macro should work.
They sell the unit and have a link to the company site which provides bundles of info. I guess it depends on the parameters of each individual's tank. It has been a great help in finalizing plans for my reef tank upgrade M, Funky Old Reef Mud, from www.
IMO, Marc Weiss products amount to 'snake oil' and usually only part you from money. Avoid them like the plague. Things are doing well, and the sump is filled with Caulerpa. I am trying to grow SPS and think it is time for a change. Do you think this is a wise choice? I am thinking that I need to have the Gracilaria grow for a few weeks and slowly remove the Caulerpa in small daily bunches.
Gracilaria is not nearly as easy to grow, so it may be tough getting it established. It is stocked with 5 small fish and 25 different frags.
I have a ecosystem refugium with their "miracle" mud I had to at least try it. I personally have a refugium based similarly although I don't have the "mud". I have been pretty proud that I added a bleached white Sebae anemone a few weeks ago and its brownish green color is already coming back.
I'm hoping this is a good sign that my tank is on the right track. Anyway I know the guys at Ecosystem say they don't run a skimmer on their systems but I have always run a skimmer and when building the sumps for this tank I made a compartment for my skimmer just in case. I think its really about the requirements of what you plan to keep. By its nature the mud system is going to be cleaning the water with the Caulerpa it uses BUT it also puts things back into the water and that makes it perhaps not the absolute most pristine water.
You have to decide whether you want a totally pristine tank or whether you can live with that. I didn't think there would be much there honestly. And either way all the corals seem happy before and after skimming. Thanks for any answers.
Everything is going great with the tank. All the water parameters are excellent. I have been pretty proud that I added a bleach white Sebae anemone a few weeks ago and its brownish green color is already coming back. Which I have read that they lose all their color when they are stressed and they are very sensitive to water quality and lighting. Anyway I know the guys at Ecosystem say they don't run a skimmer on their systems but I have always ran a skimmer and when building the sumps for this tank I made a compartment for my skimmer just in case.
Last night I decided to run the skimmer just to see what was there and by morning it was full of black skimmate.
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Thomas Jefferson Dating History. Relationship info powered by: Here the use of plywood is hidden by sinking the aquarium inside the wall. Putting insulation between the two helps with the insulation of a heated tank. These aquariums provide slow, circular water flow with a bare minimum of interior hardware to prevent the inhabitants from becoming injured by pumps or the tank itself. Water moving into the tank gives a gentle flow that keeps the inhabitants suspended.
Water leaves the tank through a screen which prevents animals from being drawn into the pump intake or overflow line. There are several types of kreisel tanks. In a true kreisel, a circular tank has a circular, submerged lid. Pseudokreisels are "U" or semicircle shaped, usually without a lid. Using two downwelling inlets on both sides of the tank lets gravity create two gyres in the tank.
A single downwelling inlet may be used in the middle as well. The top of a stretch kreisel may be open or closed with a lid. There may also be screens about midway down the sides of the tank, or at the top on the sides. Some of the most popular biotopes are the freshwater habitats of the Amazon and Rio Negro rivers, the African rift lake environments of Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyikaand saltwater coral reefs of Australiathe Red Seaand the Caribbean.
The fish, plants, substrate, rocks, wood, coral, and any other component of the display should completely match that of the local natural environment. It can be a challenge to recreate such environments, and most "true" biotopes will only have a few if not only one species of fish and invertebrates.
Finally, an emerging concept for the home is that of a wall mounted aquarium,  some of which are displayed at the Living Art Marine Center.
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Relatively large home aquaria resist rapid fluctuations of temperature and pHallowing for greater system stability. Unfiltered bowl-shaped aquaria are now widely regarded as unsuitable for most fish. Advanced alternatives are now available.
Chemical filtration should also be considered under some circumstances for optimum water quality. Nano aquariums[ edit ] A new trend is to have very small aquariums, termed mini aquariums less than litres or 40 gallons or nano aquariums less than 75 litres or 20 gallons. These can be either freshwater or saltwater, and are intended to display a tiny but self-contained ecosystem.
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Many aquaria incorporate a hood, containing the lights, to decrease evaporation and prevent fish from leaving the aquarium and anything else from entering the aquarium.
These either convert ammonia to nitrate removing nitrogen at the expense of aquatic plantsor to sometimes remove phosphate. Filter media can house microbes that mediate nitrification. Filtration systems are sometimes the most complex component of home aquaria. Wave-making devices have also been constructed to provide wave action.